Early last year GQ's resident restaurant reviewer Alan Richman rather infamously gave Husk Charleston the cold shoulder, leaving it out of his annual Best New Restaurants list and roundly knocking the meals he had there. But Richman was apparently willing to give it a shot at redemption, of sorts, through its latest incarnation, Husk Nashville, and he finds the results are much different this time around, giving it three out of four stars:
Unless my travels were in some way influenced by astrological imbalances that for a short term made bumblers out of an entire kitchen in Charlestown and transformed cooks in Nashville into whiz kids, I'm left with a pretty straightforward conclusion: The kitchen crew in Nashville is in a different league. Brock's recipes have matured, too. They demonstrated sophistication I didn't see in Charleston. I'm just a Northerner, which means my vote doesn't count, but I'm convinced that the best way to showcase Southern cooking is not merely to grow better beans but to transform the food with modern thinking and an abundance of finesse.