Just a little over two months after opening, Carrington Fox reviews Husk Nashville, one of the most anticipated restaurants of the year, and she sees two very different sides to the story. Fox says that "[o]n the one side, there's the tale of a fabulous dinner at the Nashville outpost of chef Sean Brock's acclaimed Charleston nameplate; on the other, a much less inspiring saga of a disappointing lunch."
Fox describes dinner as "a page-turner with a plot so gripping I didn't even realize it was all a metaphor for something else." That 'something else' being "the deeper homage to the history of Low Country agriculture and the migration of crops from Africa to the New World." Standout dishes include pork belly and loin with cabbage, crispy pig ears "[t]ossed with scallion barbecue sauce [and] served on crisp fronds of local Bibb lettuce," and the vegetable plate ("....the first meatless meal for which we happily forked over $25").
But on visiting for lunch:
Not only did the midday meal fall short of Husk's lofty hype, but elements were empirically disappointing. The burger was undercooked and overcheesed, weeping with bacon grease. A deli sandwich of thin-shaved folds of salty ham lacked the promised fried green tomato.
Fox goes on to say that "the current disparity between lunch and the main event is so great that a discouraged lunch guest might not bother to return."
· At Nashville's branch of Charleston-based Husk, dinner is grand, but lunch is another story [-NS-]
· All Husk Nashville Coverage on Eater Nashville [-ENSH-]